No products in the basket.
Fishmonger Ruud den Haan is the winner of the National Herrick Test 2017. "This is something you can only dream about."
"What would the old guy say about this?" murmurs Robert den Haan, after which he hugs his brother Christian and partner Seth van Dienst. No cheers, no jumping. While tears fill the eyes, the three men stand around each other in silence. 'Fishmonger Ruud den Haan, winner of the the National Herring Test 2017'. The news needs to settle in a little. And between the certificates of former successes on the wall, father Ruud den Haan, the old man, looks on from a portrait photo.
"This is something you can only dream about.", says Christian (35). "Of course, you fantasise now and then of becoming first. We have reached high rankings before for a reason. But now it has actually happened, I'm at a loss for words."
Fat Ten
© Rick Arnold
The judges Aad Taal en John Oosterhuis don't hesitate for a second to grade the 'Hollandse Nieuwe' (the Dutch New Herring) of fishmonger Ruud den Haan from Rotterdam with a 10. "A rich, creamy and salty taste. A textbook example of everything that makes the Hollandse Nieuwe a delicacy." The National Herringtest that will be published tomorrow, proves that more and more fishmongers vie for the top rankings. Out of the 148 visited fishmongers, 48 received a score of 8 or higher. There are still some things to improve on, however, as the judges sadly grade 31 shops with a 2,5 or even lower.
Ask a Rotterdammer the name of a fishmonger. Chances are, he will name Den Haan. Robert and Christian are the fourth generation 'Haantjes' in the fish business. Great grandfather Bertus went from door to door through the street of Rotterdam with his baskets of herring at the start of the last century. From one house to the next, he peddled his wares. The herring stand he opened on the Noordplein in 1924 was a huge leap for the business and enjoyed citywide fame. His son Rinus takes over the business and later Rinus's son, Ruud, follows their footsteps. In 1982, it is Ruud who decides to open a fishmongers shop on the Oudedijk, together with his wife Alice. The shop develops into the meeting place of the chic neighbourhood Kralingen in no time. The professional know-how of Ruud and the warm, genuine interest in the customers of Alice are the ingredients of a cocktail everyone enjoys.
Blood brother
© Rick Arnold
It is within this atmosphere that the brothers Robert and Christian grow up. Their first word is 'fish' - so to speak. Like in many of the middle class families their lives revolve around the shop. They learn to roll up their sleeves from an early age. They get taught everything about fish, as well as the respect and hospitality for their customers. In 2000, everything changes by the sudden passing of their father, Ruud. Robert and Christian, both 18 at the time, quit their studies to help their mother Alice. Robert: "We just got our drivers license, so it was possible for us to drive to the fish auction in Scheveningen."
Reality is a harsh teacher. Falling down, getting up and tripping again. They decide to sell the shop and work under a boss. But, blood is ticker than water. One year later, they buy the shop back. Together with their 'blood brother' as third bother, Seth (36) they and their shop are there to stay. Christian: "We are serving the people as we would like to be served ourselves." It might be a detail, but they greet their customers when they enter the shop and look them in the eyes. Whenever possible, they address them by name and know what their regulars usually want to order. Seth: "Everyone visits our shop and everyone is just as welcome. Whether you spend 100 euros every week or just one plaice."
A diverse customer base
© Rick Arnold
And so, you'll see all kinds of people stop by within a couple of hour. The rushed business man, with a slightly oversized car, an elderly lady, a exhausted housewife, a father with his young kids or a man who comes over from Belgium to buy wild salmon. Regular customer Jannet Visser: "I always like to buy my mother a fried sole. They don't mind at all to fry it in a pan for me."
The three men, in the corridors commonly referred to as 'Huey, Dewey and Louie', complement each other to a tee. A look, gesture or a half word is suffices. Always calm, collected and friendly. Robert: "This is were we as found most. This shop is our home." To have the routine down is a necessity, because there is one thing they don't have: space. For themselves as for their customers, there aren't that many square metres available. Christian: "We'd love to have more space, but it is what it is."
Scheveningen
© Rick Arnold
Robert can be found at the fish auction in Scheveningen at 05:00 four days a week, because quality is key. Robert: "It's possible to get everything delivered wholesale, which is actually cheaper. But I can only test the quality if I can see and compare the fish myself."
Which is also true for the 'Hollandse Nieuwe' (Dutch New herring). They test countless batches at wholesale Atlantic this year. Until they find the ultimate one. Robert: "We buy the buckets when they're already frozen and thaw them ourselves. This gives us the opportunity to slightly influence the taste to get the most optimal product. Because herring is really in our DNA."
On July 22 in the 'Algemeen Dagblad': The complete result of the 36th National Herring Test.
Source:Algemeen Dagblad